See San Blas Before You Die

Posted by This American Girl

Hop a flight to Panama.

Catch a jeep to the coast.

Cruise out into the Caribbean.

Pass millions of tiny islands

decide which to call your own.

Step foot on the white powder shore

swim in the pristine green sea

switch off your cell

it won’t work here

forget about email, social media, the news

simply relax and enjoy life

free from digital distraction.

Eat freshly caught lobster

bathed in butter and coconut

wash your dishes with sand in the sea.

Gather around a bonfire

with the few other island dwellers

share stories under a sky littered with stars.

Crawl into your hut

with sand for a floor

sleep deeply

away from the sounds of the world.

Rise in the morning

with nothing to do

but throw on a snorkel

or get lost in a book

ever grateful

to the native Kuna Yalas

who keep San Blas precious

who keep San Blas pure.

How to Arrive

Air Panama flights leave daily from Panama City and cost $45-60 each way. From the airport you take a panga to the island where you plan to stay.

Jeeps leave Panama City every morning, cost $60 round trip, and take 2.5 hours to reach the coast. From there you take a 1-2 hour panga, $20-30 round trip, to the island of your choice.

How to Book

The islands are small and space is limited. Plan ahead to secure your stay on the island of your choice. Book through Luna’s Castle or Mama Illena in Panama City.

Where to Stay

My favorite island in San Blas is Chichaemae. It is tiny, gorgeous, and everything San Blas represents. Accomodations are very modest and inexpensive, development is nonexistent. Other islands range from backpacker party havens to pricey couples getaways to completely desolate.

Read more about the different islands here.

What to Bring

A few changes of comfortable clothes and bathing suits

Washing laundry is not an option so bring enough to feel comfortable, but pack light.

Your passport

You will be required to show your passport when entering the islands.

All natural shampoo, conditioner, and soap

Most of the islands do not have showers. If you’d still like to wash with soap bring all natural products so that you can bathe in the ocean without having an environmental impact.

Snacks

Meals are included but tend to be very simple: fish, coconut rice, and salad. If you’d like to add flavor bring your own hot sauce or other condiments. There is no food for purchase on the island, so if you are a big eater or a picky eater bring your own snacks. Crackers, peanut butter, bread, granola bars, anything that does not require refrigeration, which is not available on the islands.

Beverages

You may purchase bottled water on the island, but it is expensive and some of it tastes like dirt. Coconut water, beer, and rum are also available, but expensive as well.

The Cost Breakdown

$60-120 for transportation to the islands (jeep vs flight)

$20-30 for boat transport to your island, round trip

$13 for entrance fees and taxes

$25-45/day includes accommodation and food

$0-20 per day on drinks and alcohol

Cost to Arrive: $93-$163 round trip

Cost to Stay: $25-65 per day

On Fear Conquering

Posted by This American Girl

By now you probably know my thoughts on fear.

How every day I try to challenge myself to do something that truly scares me.

That boarding an airplane, which I do with regularity, is one of the most terrifying experiences I can imagine.

Yesterday I faced another fear.

The ocean.

You heard it right. This beach bumming world wanderer is terrified of the sea.

As a child I was fearless in the ocean. Growing up near the Eastern shore in the United States I spent summer holidays body surfing in waves that towered over my tiny body, sucked me under, tumbled me into a vigorous rinse cycle, then spit me onto the shore. I had no fear. I trusted that the tide would always bring me back.

I carried that fearlessness with me around the world. In Bocas del Toro, Panama I swam in a wave coined “the backbreaker,” stood boardless with surfers in Oahu between sets locals wouldn’t consider, and ignored the red flags at the Costa Rican Caribbean shore.

Until the day I almost drowned.

It happened in Puerto Viejo, at Beach Break in Playa Cocles last June. One of the most notorious breaks in all of Central America. I ignored the rip tide warnings and went swimming, by myself. When it stopped being fun and started feeling scary, I began to paddle towards the shore, hoping the waves would bring me in. Instead they dragged me further out, exhausting me with each crash. I was stuck in a riptide, and as much as I knew to swim parallel to safety, I continued to fight the insurmountable strength of the ocean. I reached a point where I felt so utterly exhausted I simply couldn’t fight anymore. I began to accept the idea that I might never reach the shore. That I might drown. That I might die.

Since then I have developed a new respect for the ocean. I heed its warnings. I back down in fear.

Living once again in Puerto Viejo, where surfing is practiced as often and intentionally as meditation in a Buddhist monastery, I felt compelled to face this fear. To face the ocean. The same ocean that almost took my life.

And I will be honest, it was terrifying.

I paddled through waves closing out over my head, occasionally sucked into their swirling vacuum and spewed back to the surface, with nothing supporting me but the encouraging words of my friend Nena and my 7′ pintail. Rocking in the green water, floating over the soft peaks of waves that dropped beyond me in a frothy white cliff, I felt sick with fear. But I sat, and I stayed. I reintroduced myself to the ocean, this time with humility.

Big sets came in. Sets I knew I couldn’t float. Sets I knew I couldn’t ride. I threw my board behind me and ducked below each wave. Trusting that eventually they would push me up for air. My heart pounded rapidly, my breath was shallow. So I sat, and I stayed. I let the panic pass. And when I time was right, I rode in.

Did I conquer this fear? Can I now dive headfirst without trepidation?

Absolutely not. In fact it makes me feel sick to even think about my experience yesterday.

But somehow I am itching, I am yearning, to get right back out.

So I will.

When the Sun Won’t Shine

Posted by This American Girl

Born and raised in Seattle, Washington one might expect I’d be accustomed to the rain.

Greeting each gray morning in a sophisticated trench

sporting shades to combat the blindingly white overcast sky

stepping into rubber wellies to keep my thick wool socks dry.

And while I lived that way

for the better part of my life

I never liked it.

In the summer months

I was the first to wear shorts and espadrilles even if I froze in the shade.

Ducked out of work early if temperatures exceeded 70 degrees.

Refused to eat in restaurants without patios or lakefront views.

Spent every moment I could bathing in the intermittent sunshine the sky afforded me.

In fact I have been told that I love the sun

more than anyone on earth.

But somehow, I can never quite seem to escape the rain.

I’ve waded flooded muddy streets in Mexico

hidden in museums in Paris

stood under the eaves of monuments in Rome

headed to the hills during monsoons on Oahu

swam in the ocean under storms in Costa Rica

eaten soggy street food in drizzly London

waited out the rain in beachside bars in Belize

and island hopped under a protective parka in Bocas del Toro

Now, as I write this, from Puerto Viejo

I am staring at the jungle between drops of rain.

It started the day I arrived

and almost one week later

has ceased to stop.

Trucks spray mud puddles onto my bare legs as I peddle by on my bicycle.

My clothes, my towels, my books just won’t dry.

The beach walk I took yesterday became a rescue mission when I found myself submerged in a river that flooded the shore.

And most importantly

I have lost my tan.

What do you do

when the sun

won’t shine?

Outside.

Inside.

When the memories of days that seemed like eternal summers

shine so bright in your mind you can almost feel the warmth

yet you just can’t channel the light.

When you want more than anything

to have the easy happiness

that comes with the sun

but are consumed with the heaviness

of the clouds.

Instead of sulking

of hoping

of waiting

for the sun

what if you found

the beauty

the growth

the peace

in the rain?

Because rain fills our oceans and rivers

creating waves to ride and pools to swim.

Rain seeps deep into the ground

making the jungle lush and green

the trees strong and tall

the flowers soft and open.

Rain cleans and purifies all that it touches.

Rain sustains life.

So if the world around you is shrouded in clouds

or your heart and soul are caught in a turbulent storm

appreciate

respect

this time of rain.

Know that it is fueling, feeding, rejuvenating

your world

for the time

when sun decides

to shine again.

And I promise

however dark your sky

one day

it will.

Granada, Nicaragua is Beautiful

Posted by This American Girl

I never decided to go to Granada, Nicaragua.

Less than twenty-four hours earlier I was en route to Puerto Viejo. I had planned to spend the next few months settling in.

Finding the clarity I needed to determine my next adventure. Conserving the energy I spent simply trying to survive and channel it into projects I had neglected on the road.

I couldn’t wait to be back on my bicycle. To cook myself dinner. To see my friends. To return to the closest sense of normalcy I have experienced in more than a year.

But the night before I planned to go, something inside me did not feel ready. Something in me feared that if I went back to Puerto Viejo I might never leave.

I worried I might lose my wanderlust spirit and become stuck.

This decision weighed heavily on me.

So I did what I often do when presented with a difficult choice:

I relieved myself of all responsibility and instead let the universe decide.

It chose Granada.

And there, in the beautiful, hectic, colonial city, I was reminded why I love this life of travel.

I wandered the quieted early morning streets

eating fruit freshly cut on the road

fried balls of yucca dipped in honey

and the most incredible pupusa known to man.

I never felt more alive.

I marveled at stunning churches

stairs

and streets.

I chatted with locals

whose rapid Spanish

humbled my sassy spirit.

I photographed

every

beautiful

door

unblocked by passing cars.

I escaped the heat of the city

in a mecca

with a spa and a pool

and the meanest little residents

who nipped at my head and toes.

I climbed to the top of volcanoes

explored tiny islands

swam in a cool blue lagoon.

I took the wrong bus

but found my new favorite café

I climbed

to the top of a tower

moments later saw a Carnival parade.

I became lost

early and often

but the universe always led me

exactly where I needed to be.

Stay

Hostel El Momento

$8 for a dorm bed, private rooms start at $14

Hands down one of my favorite hostels I have ever stayed in. The rooms are large and spacious, even the dorm boasts big double beds. The communal area is adorably decorated and feels comforting, like home. The staff is kind, accommodating, and helpful. And somehow, in a city with incredible cuisine, the onsite restaurant has some of the best and most affordable food around. Try the thai red curry with loads of veggies and local raw cashews.

Hotel Spa Granada

Rooms start at $59 per night including full buffet breakfast, daily pool use, and one spa treatment per day

Hotel Spa Granada is inside of a beautiful old colonial building. The rooms, the gardens, the pool, and the views are all stunning. Enjoy a buffet breakfast each morning with gallo pinto, eggs, fruit, granola, toast, coffee, and juice. Spend time at the pool when you burn out from the heat of the street. Enjoy a massage, manicure, pedicure, or facial e.v.e.r.y.d.a.y. For $60 it doesn’t get much better than this.

Eat

The Garden Café

$3-5 for breakfast, $4-6 for lunch

Come to The Garden Cafe to sit and read one of their many books on a cozy couch or chair, sip on a cappuccino, nibble on a freshly baked muffin, and observe the Granada expat community. Enjoy a healthy breakfast or lunch with fresh fruit and vegetables and other local ingredients. Purchase organic farm produce when available.

Café de los Suenos

$5-8 for lunch

Is your body craving an enormous, satisfying salad? Head to Cafe de los Suenos immediately. For $6 they load roasted beets, avocado, grilled chicken, feta cheese, bell peppers, and bacon on top of a big bed of lettuce. It might be the best salad I’ve ever eaten in a restaurant. The space is lovely, as is the staff. Quiche, lasagna, crepes, and panini also grace this french inspired menu.

Expressionista (no website, 3 blocks down the Xaltera road across from the cathedral)

$2-10 for breakfast, lunch, and treats

An absolutely beautiful cafe and shop owned by expats from Spain. The interior is positively inspired, the organic food is delicious, and the perfect little treats will tempt you to come again and again.

On the street

$0.50

It may not be healthy. It may not be safe. But it is delicious. And cheap. Savor a life changing pupusa made from flattened cornmeal dough stuffed with local cheese, grilled hot and crispy topped with vinegary cabbage salad. Eat seasoned fried chicken on top of crisp plantain chips. Taste unfamiliar goodies that catch your eye. Stock up on inexpensive fish, fruit, vegetables, eggs, and cheese at the local market if you’re lucky enough to have a kitchen.

Wander the streets

Free

Days can easily be spent simply wandering the streets with your eyes and a camera. Enjoy the beautiful technicolor painted colonial architecture. Sit in the park by the fountain. Let your eyes feast at the colorful markets. Soak in the beauty that is Granada.

Swim at the Laguna de Apoyo

$12 for a tour through one of the many hostels

Just outside of Granada is the stunning natural wonder called the Laguna de Apoyo. It is a clean, blue, body of water that rests inside of the crater of a volcano. Make sure to be dropped off at The Monkey Hut to lounge on docks, eat at the restaurant, use complimentary kayaks, and take a long swim.

Take a tour of the Isletas

$20 for an all day tour of the isletas.

One of Granada’s many majestic offerings is its proximity to Lake Nicaragua and the many beautiful tiny islands nearby. Explore on a boat, then stop, eat, rest, swim.

Climb to the top of Mombacho

$15 for transport to the top, $5-10 for guided tours

Walking to the top of Mombacho is entirely possible, it is also incredibly grueling. Do yourself a favor and save your energy for the many trails at the top. Enjoy stunning views of Granada, the isletas, and the surrounding countryside.

Escape the heat at Hotel Spa Granada

$5 for all day pool use, come and go as you please. $8-30 for spa services, $55 for a manicure, pedicure, facial, hour long massage, and eyebrow wax…what?!

Granada is absolutely beautiful, but damn is it hot. I spent nearly every afternoon when the sun was at its strongest, bathing in the cool water of the private courtyard pool. Beware of the three evil ducks who act as gatekeepers surrounding the adorable white kitten. They will bite and attack you. The spa services are excellent and shockingly affordable.

Visit the Calzada at night

Watch street performers, have a drink, and mingle with locals on the liveliest strip in Granada. Vendors may hassle you, stay strong and you won’t be a target.

I Am (Home)

Posted by This American Girl

I am sitting here writing to you from my new home.

The first space I have called mine in more than a year.

My eyes scan the room and I envision a fresh coat of white paint, Moroccan textiles, and tropical leaves leaning in tall glass vases.

I imagine stacks of big glossy books

rows of colorful vintage cocktail glasses

piles of textural pillows

walls of carefully curated art

and I feel compelled to transform this space that surrounds me.

I wonder if they sell cozy white bedding in nearby Limon?

It couldn’t hurt to visit a fabric store in San Jose…

Perhaps the owner will let me paint if I show her my portfolio.

I see myself in pearls and snakeskin pumps assembling appetizers while bossa nova plays in the background

pouring prosecco into cut crystal flutes

pausing momentarily to offer my guests a glowing smile

modestly accepting their compliments on my cooking, my outfit, my home.

The art of entertaining and playing house is something that for me has always come naturally. At best it was a form of expression. I felt creative. I had fun. But in many ways, it meant so much more than that. At times it meant everything.

It was my sanctity from my own internal storm.

It was my fixation and obsession when I needed distraction and control.

It was my validation that I was special and worthy of praise.

It was my comfort in knowing that I could transform anything into something beautiful if I worked hard enough.

I looked to my surroundings to improve whatever internal state I embodied at the moment. I thought that if I created a space so beautiful, so tranquil, so perfect, then maybe I could feel beauty, tranquility, and perfection. If I orchestrated a party, a dinner, an event so lively, so entertaining, so enjoyable, then perhaps I might feel alive, entertained, and full of joy.

And sometimes it worked. Sometimes it really did.

So sitting here, in a damp bikini, while the rain hails relentlessly outside my wooden Caribbean home, my feet propped on top of my dirty backpack, unsure of the direction of my life or the accuracy of my decisions, hesitant to sit still for more than a moment, it is easy to feel the urge to transform my space.

But I know that the real place I find comfort is in my own body.

Navigating unfamiliar locations, situations, interactions.

Owning as little as possible.

Free from possessions and needs.

Able to shift and change when I am ready, happy to sit still and rest when I am not.

So instead of seeking transformation

I will accept what does surround me and see its beauty.

I will settle into where I am now and find tranquility.

I will stop judging and recognize that everything is already perfect.

I will feel alive when my bare feet wade through flooded streets and plant on slick muddy ground

when my hands graze the swaying banana leaves

when I stop to smell the wild hibiscus flowers.

I will find constant entertainment in the freedom of living each day exactly how I choose.

I will be overcome with joy by the blessing that is my absolutely privileged, phenomenal life.

Wherever I am

whatever it looks like

however it feels

I am home.

And when I am ready to move again, I will.

Because I own nothing

and nothing owns me.

Photos of my home in Seattle by Brendan Paul

What I Think About Machismo

Posted by This American Girl

I will never forget the first time I felt small, like I wanted nothing more than to hide, like I was less of a person, because of the attention of a man.

I was twelve years old walking home from a day at the lake with friends. It was late in the afternoon in the suburbs of Seattle. I don’t remember how I looked or what I was wearing but considering my age and rate of development I imagine I appeared innocent and slightly dorky.

Walking the streets of the town I called home, I experienced what we refer to in my country as “cat calling”. A response I, like all women, have begun to expect when walking alone.

The honking I could tolerate. The indiscernible shouts I ignored. But after walking for nearly three hours on busy streets, sweaty and exhausted, it was the man who stuck his head out of his car window and exaggeratedly blew me a kiss as he whizzed by, that finally collapsed my spirit.

Since then I have been shouted at on streets across the world. I have been followed by men for blocks. I have been begged for sex, companionship, a dance, and conversation.

A stranger stuck his hand up my skirt when I entered a crowded bar in Belize.

In Mexico I stood in an ATM next to a man pleasuring himself.

Walking midday in midtown clad in professional attire, an American whispered words dirtier than the streets of Manhattan into my ear as he rounded the corner.

Yesterday a man stroked my arm as I passed him on the street in Granada. Two teenagers smacked my butt as they rode by on a bicycle.

And somehow it has all felt so disturbingly normal.

I lower my head and divert my gaze.

I try desperately to become invisible.

I tug at my shorts.

I absorb the shame that these men are somehow unable to summon.

I expect police officers to undress me with their eyes.

I barely hear the whistles, the “mami”s, and the “guapa”s these days.

The exaggerated glances, the mumbled “wow”s, and the persistent “hola”s have become a simple nuisance in my navigation of the world.

Day after day I endure it.

All because I am a woman.

Now, in Granada, Nicaragua, where the looks, the whispers, the shouts, the touches are more incessant than any place I have ever been, I just can’t take it anymore.

Let’s try that again.

I refuse to take it anymore.

And you should too.

So, to the men out there who bother, follow, touch, shout at a woman who has the courage to be and walk alone, listen up:

I refuse to accept that a smile or a glance is an invitation for you to stalk me.

I refuse to consider how my attire will affect your libido.

I refuse to travel with a man simply to avoid your overt attention. News flash: I don’t belong to him either!

I refuse to pretend I don’t hear your disgusting remarks. I will respond and it will not be pleasant.

I refuse to listen to your wants and needs and decline them politely hoping to not offend you.

Instead I will tell you exactly what it is that I want.

I want to enjoy my walk, my swim, my coffee, my cocktail, my book

WITHOUT

you and your conversation.

Contrary to what you think, I want to be alone. I choose to be alone.

And what do I think about your machismo?

It is not cool.

It is not manly.

And it most definitely is not hot.

So please

just stop.

Please Don’t Go to Little Corn Island, Nicaragua

Posted by This American Girl

Little Corn Island fulfills every Caribbean fantasy I could conjure

an untouched paradise

where magical jungle meets crystalline turquoise sea

colorful boats rock gently on a sleepy harbor

the water is warm

the air is breezy

and the smell of fresh coconut bread wafts

from pink, periwinkle, and lemon painted houses

where families sell pillowy loaves for less than a dollar.

Heaps of lobster come ashore from the salty sea

swim in coconut curry

and rest in satisfied bellies.

Everyone wanders the island barefoot

no shoes no shirt no problem

and drinks rum from fresh coconuts around a blazing bonfire.

Divers spend their days deep underwater

making dolphins, sharks, and stingrays their friends.

Yogis wander into the woods to a magical, spiritual space

and flow with a beauty who once called my jungle her home.

Travelers sleep in shacks, with no electricity in the day

grateful for the intermittent internet from gringo cafes.

Provisions are precious and come but once a week

reminding privileged travelers you can’t always get what you need.

Evenings feel as safe as balmy childhood summers

under a bedazzled sky and a glowing moon

the path is dark but fireflies will guide you home.

Time does not exist

rather the rise and set of the sun

the glow and fade of the stars

and though each day passes

life continues

to always stay the same.

So please

whatever you do

don’t go to Little Corn.

Let it stay perfect

and let it stay mine.

But, if you must go…

Stay

Little Corn Beach and Bungalows

Starting at $30/night in low season for 2 people, Master Suites for $140 in high season

This is the loveliest, most luxury accommodation on the beach side of the island. The cabins are beautiful, look out onto the ocean, are centrally located and on one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. They also have wifi which, while spotty, is pure solid gold on this island. It’s almost unbelievable that cabins start at $30. The inexpensive rooms fill fast, so book in advance. Kayak rentals and snorkels are available to rent and the onsite bar and restaurant is delicious.

Casa Iguana

Starting at $35/night for a cabin for 2

These cabins are built up on a bluff and have stunning views of the East side of the island. The onsite restaurant has wifi, free purified water, the best french toast I’ve ever tasted (soaked in coconut cream custard and topped with coconut infused syrup and shredded coconut), and uses organic ingredients from their own farm.

Cool Spot aka Grace’s Place

Starting at $15/night for a double with shared bathroom, $50 for a cabin with kitchen

I stayed at Cool Spot for more than a week and for the same price as a dorm bed in Costa Rica I was quite happy for my simply beachfront shack. Sure my feet were sandy all day every day but that’s part of the fun! I met awesome solo travelers here. It does have the most party atmosphere of the beach accommodations, which was annoying at times. They host twice weekly beach barbecues and bonfires.

Three Brothers

Starting at $10 per night for a double

If you are a serious budget traveler, this is the only hotel (there are no hostels) on the island with a shared kitchen. Rooms are clean and the kitchen is spacious. It sits on the West side of the island in town, a fifteen minute walk across the jungle to the beach.

Eat

Tranquilo Cafe

$3-5 cocktails, $6-8 meals

The entire social scene of the island seems to center around Tranquilo Cafe. Every night they offer happy hour drink specials from 5-7 and have bonfires a few times a week. The ceviche, fish tacos, and burger are delicious and I became obsessed with their raw beet slaw (a valuable commodity on an island with no health food). Do not miss the amazing smoothies with fresh fruit, yogurt, and avocado. Did I mention they have the best internet connection on the island?

Café Desideri

$5-8 for lunch, $8-12 for dinner

The tastiest restaurant on the island imho. My first night I enjoyed fresh kingfish fillet smothered in onions and coconut sauce with roasted veggies and green papaya salad. It was amazing. They also offer Italian treats like lobster pasta and lasagna. I’ve heard the breakfast is to die for as well.

Turned Turtle

$4-6 for breakfast, $10-15 for four course dinner, $6 for a life changing Pina Colada

The lovely beachfront restaurant of Little Corn Beach and Bungalows. Delicious breakfasts come with toasted local coconut bread topped with cinnamon and sugar. The dinner is by far the best deal on the island with an appetizer (usually a delicious homemade garlic bread), small salad, entree with starch and vegetable, and dessert. My favorites were the tender filet mignon on a bed of fresh spinach with a buttery, buttery, BUTTERY baked potato and the parmesan crusted snapper in a spicy red pepper cream sauce. Whatever you order be sure to try the Pina Colada. Thick, smooth, and creamy with a big dollop of toasted shredded coconut it blows any Pina Colada… no ANY DRINK I’ve ever had out of the water. It is amazing. Trust me.

Colorview

Come here for local rondon (coconut seafood stew) and lobster. The atmosphere leaves something to be desired but if you want delicious, local food, you can’t beat it.

“Street Food”

Some of the best and certainly the cheapest food on Little Corn is sold from local homes and on the street. Wander town looking for cardboard signs reading “hay pan de coco” and buy yourself a delicious loaf of local coconut bread. Next to the dock is a woman selling fruit and vegetables and ready to eat slices of watermelon for $.50. Be sure to find the old local man selling coconut cookies and Nicaraguan pati (similar to an empanada) on the street and on the beach.

Explore the island

It may be called “Little Corn” but there is so much to see on this island. Walk the beach up to the deserted northern coves, explore the hidden beaches behind Casa Iguana, visit the farm on the South side, and climb the lighthouse in the center of the island. Tourist maps are readily available.

Dive

Diving is practically a religion on this island and there are plenty of reputable dive shops for you to choose from. If you are looking to get your open water dive certification it is an incredible bargain here for $300. Fun dives cost $35 and a one time experience for those without certification costs $65 for basic skills training and a 1 hour dive. I did my dive with Dolphin Dive and found them to be professional and fun.

Snorkel

There are some nice reefs you can swim to from the beach in front of Casa Iguana or you can arrange a snorkel tour for about $20. You can arrange a tour through your hotel or with any of the guys trolling the beach.

Trip to the Pearl Keys

$50 for a full day

A few hours from Little Corn lies a stunning island chain said to rival the San Blas islands in Panama. Some are completely deserted, others are privately owned. Arrange a tour to visit these tiny tropical islands, spend a few hours snorkeling and fishing, and eat a big seafood barbecue on the beach. I have heard this tour is phenomenal.

Yoga at Firefly Yoga and Massage

$10 for a 1.5 hour yoga class, intro specials available, $40 for a 1 hour massage

When friends from Puerto Viejo heard I would be on Little Corn they urged me to take some classes at Firefly Yoga and Massage. The owner and instructor, Sarah, used to teach at Om, my favorite yoga studio in the world. Her studio on Little Corn might be the loveliest, most intimate, sacred yoga space I have ever entered. Surrounded by screens in the middle of the jungle you hear birds chirping and the waves crashing during your yoga or massage session. Sarah is an incredibly talented instructor, showing me transitions I had never seen before. In the few classes I took I learned how to go deeper into several postures and with greater ease. Her words during meditation are beautiful and she has a soft yet strong presence which keeps her classes grounded.

Relax

Lay in a hammock. Soak up the sun. Float in the glowing aqua sea. Sip a cold cerveza. Everything else can wait.

Arrive

It is possible to arrive by bus and boat to the Corn Islands, but the stories I have heard are so horrific I’d like to urge you to just fly.

Flights leave twice daily from Managua to Big Corn Island in the morning and afternoon for $160 round trip. It is possible to book an open return ticket, which is dangerous as you might never leave.

From Big Corn Island take a panga for 30 minutes ($6) to Little Corn which leaves an hour after the planes land.

Know

Stay on the beach

The beach side of the island is breezier and you really can’t beat the views. There is nothing quite like watching the stars before bed and waking up to see the sunrise over the ocean.

Bring cash

There is no ATM on Little Corn, only on Big Corn, so bring lots of cash. Some restaurants and hotels accept credit cards and charge a 5% fee.

Take the South path to town

Walking between town and the beach across the jungle is inevitable. Take the paved South path at night as I’ve heard there have been robberies on less trodden paths. Bring a flash light.

Electricity stops in the daytime

Most places run off of generators, but there is still no electricity between 6am and 3pm. Charge all of your electronics at night and be prepared to wake up when the fans shut off.

Fresh produce is difficult to come by

This was my biggest struggle staying on this island. Having a nice big salad for lunch is downright impossible. It’s understandable as food comes in by freight once a week.

English is widely spoken

The native tongue is English Creole but locals speak English and Spanish fluently.

Lower your service expectations

This is a laid back island with a very different culture. Expect to wait a long time for your food and drinks. Expect your order to occasionally be wrong. Do not expect to be asked if you want another drink, to have your water refilled, your bed changed, or to have anything done in a timely manner. If you want something, ask for it. Relax and it will all be ok.

Come during lobster season

Fresh, cheap lobster is a huge bonus, but be sure to come during lobster season which typically runs July through March. The rest of the year lobster is not available or comes from the freezer.

How to Arrive

How to Book

Where to Stay

What to Bring

The Cost Breakdown

Follow “This American Girl”